From Jammu to Srinagar: A Personal Journey Into the Heart of Kashmir

A Warm Welcome in Jammu

My journey began in Jammu, where I reunited with a dear friend, Mr. Mirza Abdul Rashid. A seasoned politician who had served as Speaker, Minister, and Member of Parliament, Mr. Rashid was a well-known figure associated with Farooq Abdullah’s National Conference. He believed I should meet Dr. Farooq Abdullah and kindly arranged the meeting.

Accompanied by Mr. Rashid and our host, Shabir Gilani, we visited Abdullah’s residence—a grand property said to be more lavish than many in Srinagar. Despite my lack of political office or influence, Farooq Abdullah received me with immense warmth. Our conversation lasted an hour and a half and focused largely on the future of Kashmir.

Meeting Farooq Abdullah: Leadership in Person

Farooq Abdullah struck me as a true leader. He welcomed me like a long-lost friend. His central belief was that Kashmir should be autonomous—internally self-governed but still in a confederation with India. He stressed that external interference had only made matters worse.

Midway through our talk, a security officer entered with refreshments. Farooq Abdullah discreetly asked him to leave, explaining later that he was cautious of anyone trying to record our conversation. This level of awareness was telling, and yet, it did not interfere with his hospitality. Before we left, he gifted me a book containing a compilation of his speeches.

On the Road to Srinagar

Our next leg of the journey took us from Jammu to Srinagar by road. Ram Sahai, the generous man who had handled all my transport needs in Jammu, ensured I didn’t pay a single rupee for the trip. His driver was instructed not to let me spend anything.

The scenic drive included stops at Banihal Hills—towering and steep enough to knock off your cap if you looked up too long—and Patni Top, a serene hill station developed beautifully by the government. We also paused in Anantnag and visited Pahalgam, famous for its cold springs, and Shopian, renowned worldwide for its saffron.

Life Under the Gun—and the Smile

Despite the natural beauty, the Valley bore signs of its ongoing turmoil. Every road, market, and even remote field had armed soldiers standing guard. While taking photos in a saffron field, one lone soldier approached us. We assumed he might stop us, but instead, he smiled and said, “Take a photo of me as well.” That moment encapsulated the human spirit persisting beneath the militarization.

Staying in Srinagar: From Hotels to Houseboats

Back in Srinagar, I shifted from the Intercontinental to a medium-range hotel. The following day, Mr. Wataley, a retired DIG, hosted a reception in my honor. Prominent figures attended, and Zee TV interviewed me in the hotel’s garden. The interview was later broadcast multiple times.

The Vice Chancellor of the local university, Mr. Abdul Ahad Qureshi, also welcomed me with a lunch attended by professors and scholars. The academic standards at the university—especially in the law department, which I visited—were highly commendable.

The Solitude of a Houseboat

Friends later told me that a trip to Kashmir is incomplete without a night on a houseboat. So we set out by shikara to one. The houseboat was luxurious, akin to a five-star hotel, but eerily quiet. I was the only guest.

Seeing this, Mr. Gilani chose to stay the night in the adjacent room. The owner confided that before the unrest, houseboats were booked months in advance. Now, they often stood empty. He didn’t know when, or if, things would return to normal.

An Emotional Farewell

Before my departure, I met with the SP CID, who informed me that most committee members had originally rejected my travel application because I didn’t have relatives in the area. However, one IG officer overruled them, praising my honesty and approving.

On the 21st, I spent the night in a rest house within an army-controlled zone for logistical ease. The next morning, senior military officers visited me. One was originally from Chakwal, and the other from Faisalabad. I joked that they should visit Pakistan sometime. One replied with tears in his eyes, “We can’t. Army personnel are not granted visas after retirement.” That moment left a deep emotional impact on me.

Impressions of Kashmir’s Institutions

While Kashmir faces immense challenges, I observed surprisingly strong institutions. A magistrate had even issued arrest warrants for a Brigadier—unthinkable in many parts of the world. Public officials and MLAs were treated with visible respect, even by the military.

The judiciary, administration, and education system functioned with remarkable integrity despite the region’s instability. I realized how, in contrast, we in Pakistan have failed to build robust institutions since Quaid-e-Azam’s time. Leadership has been inconsistent, systems fragile, and democracy often hijacked by long-term authoritarianism.

The People’s Sentiment: A Shift in Hope

Though a Muslim majority in the Valley and a non-Muslim majority in Jammu divide the region demographically, political awareness runs high in both. In the Valley, many expressed support for Pakistan, yet a growing sense of disappointment was evident. The expectations placed on Pakistan remained unmet, creating a feeling of quiet disillusionment.

Despite the hardships, the people of Kashmir have developed resilience. They have endured seven decades of adversity and are no longer easily broken by their circumstances. India, for its part, has focused more development efforts on Jammu, but continues to invest in the Valley in hopes of winning support. Whether that will work remains uncertain.

Final Reflections: Between Two Systems

What I saw in Kashmir was more than political rhetoric or territorial conflict—it was a deep, human story. India’s institutional strength, built through decades of continuity, has provided a framework for governance. We, in contrast, have drifted without direction, lacking both leadership and systems.

Kashmir remains a land of contradiction: breathtakingly beautiful yet burdened with history, inhabited by people who are both hopeful and heartbroken. My journey did not provide all the answers, but it offered insight into a region where every field, stone, and soul carries the weight of history—and the hope for something better.