To ease long-standing tensions between Pakistan and India over Kashmir, a remarkable agreement was reached: families split across the Line of Control (LoC) would be allowed to reunite. Applications were invited from both sides, and by a fortunate twist of fate, mine was approved after a rigorous screening process. I was selected as part of the delegation from Azad Kashmir.
On April 6th, the Prime Minister of Azad Kashmir, Sardar Sikandar Hayat, hosted a farewell dinner in our honor. I was seated next to him, as I had been appointed the delegation’s leader. Amid news of a bombing in Srinagar, where the Indian delegation was being welcomed by Prime Minister Manmohan Singh and Sonia Gandhi, he asked me quietly, “Shah Ji, aren’t you worried?” I replied, “We weren’t afraid in Karbala, so why would we be afraid now?”
Encouraged by his words, I addressed my companions: “This is a historic opportunity. Life and death are in Allah’s hands—don’t let fear hold us back.”
The Journey Begins
The next day, April 7, our bus departed Muzaffarabad with great enthusiasm. We crossed into occupied Kashmir via Chakothi bridge, where we were received with great warmth by Chief Minister Mufti Sayeed, his daughter Mehbooba Mufti, and numerous officials. Over 600 media outlets were present. What was initially a 15-day permit was extended to 30 days for all.
As we reached Uri Bazaar at dusk, rain lightly fell, but the streets buzzed with emotion. Men, women, and children broke security barriers to touch our hands, some even kissing them. I insisted that our bus move slowly to avoid harming anyone. The journey to Srinagar continued through the night, and we arrived at 9 PM—too late for the official welcome by Sonia Gandhi, who had been willing to greet us despite the earlier blast.
Still, the Chief Minister and his delegation awaited us, and I stated to the media: “I have 15 million relatives here.” That line echoed in the media the next day, prominently covered in Hindustan Times and Kashmir Times.
Welcomed with Tears and Open Arms
We stayed at the Santur Hotel. The next morning, everyone set off individually to visit their relatives. I was guided by Shabbir Gilani, a local DSP and a relative of Justice Gilani. Soon, I was approached by Gulf News for an interview, which I gave the next morning in the hotel’s lawn.
That Friday, we offered Jumma prayers at the grand Jamia Masjid, led by Mirwaiz Sahib. We later visited Bandipora, near Wular Lake. While passing through Sopore, we stopped at a clothes shop. When the shopkeeper heard we were from Muzaffarabad, he hugged me, kissed my hands and face, and we were suddenly surrounded by well-wishers. We had to leave quickly to avoid a massive crowd forming.
Everywhere we went, people greeted us with warmth, love, and tears. Their longing for connection with Pakistan was palpable. At a family shrine in Bandipora, they honored me with a ceremonial head covering—a gesture of immense respect.
A Sacred Visit to the Martyrs’ Cemetery
I was determined to visit the Martyrs’ Cemetery despite warnings. “If something happens,” I said, “just bury me there.” We paid our respects, especially at Abdul Ghani Lone’s grave. We also visited a mosque housing relics of the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH), a deeply spiritual experience.
On the 11th, we flew to Jammu. A friend, Ram Sahay, President of the Chamber of Commerce, hosted me. He arranged a car, a hotel stay, and covered all expenses. Prominent journalists and MLAs visited me, and a grand reception was held in my honor at Jhelum Resort.
Spiritual Stops and Cultural Exchanges
We visited shrines, including Vaishno Devi. Though it was a holiday, the Directorate was specially opened for us. I was even gifted a VIP statue, usually reserved for dignitaries like the President and Prime Minister.
Later, we traveled to Rajouri, where an orange tree by a shrine bears fruit year-round. One of the women with us wished for an orange, and incredibly, one fell—but was quickly taken by another visitor.
On our way back, we passed through Nowshera, where, legend says, Shah Jahan’s death was first concealed. History was all around us.
Harmony Amid Diversity in Jammu
In Jammu, Abdul Majid, President of the Muslim Federation, hosted a traditional Kashmiri dinner. The respect and warmth were overwhelming. He shared how Jammu, despite its diverse demographics—40% Muslim, 60% non-Muslim—had never experienced Hindu-Muslim riots due to interfaith cooperation and trust.
That spirit of unity, peace, and resilience touched me deeply.
